Aug 17, 2022 | Maintenance and polishing |
There are many car enthusiasts out there who want to get every detail of certain cars to perfection. Even the paintwork has its own fandom! Car lovers will judge your car based on everything from the quality of the bodywork to the shade of blue you chose for your rims. If you are thinking of giving your car a new colour, read on for our best tips on car painting. These expert tips will help you get the job done without ending up with an amateurish finish.
First determine your paint colour
Choosing a paint colour is the first step when painting and car. Of course, the right colour will highlight the car's best features, but you should also consider the condition of the car's bodywork when choosing a colour. Choosing a dark colour will help you hide any scratches and scuffs, but lighter colours will do the opposite and really accentuate any imperfections. The car model and year will also help determine the right shade of paint. Most car manufacturers provide a colour code for each of their cars, making it easy to find a colour.
You can also use an online paint matching service to find a few colours that would look great on your car. Buy car paint is very easy through an online provider. You will receive the lacquer within a few days. In some cases, the use of a lacquer pen car already enough to make the whole thing look nice again. This can save a lot of time and effort.
Mixing and thinning the paint
The type of paint you choose for a car will determine how much thinner you need to add. If you want the paintwork to look as smooth and glossy as possible, you want to add as little paint as possible. The best way to do this is to put a small amount of paint in a bucket and slowly add water. If you are unsure of the paint you have chosen, it is best to start with a slightly larger amount of water. That way, you can slowly add more paint to get the consistency you want. If you paint a car in a different colour than the original, it is best to apply a layer of primer. This will ensure that the new colour covers the old one with minimal effort.
May 28, 2022 | Maintenance and polishing, Peugeot |
Peugeot 108 maintenance, what will be carried out and what do you need to consider? The Peugeot 108 is the smallest vehicle from the French car manufacturer and has been on the market since 2014. As befits a small car, the 108 not only has an attractive purchase price, but it is also extremely economical to maintain. On this page you will find more information about the test, which service work is required according to the test plan and an estimate of the costs.
Remember to keep the service booklet up to date, so that your Peugeot 108 is not only well looked after and technically in good condition, but it is also important to have the booklet in good order in the event of a guarantee claim or sale.
Important points Peugeot 108 maintenance
Important points during the inspection of the Peugeot 108:
- What are the maintenance intervals?
- What is the scope of the work?
- What are the costs for a Peugeot 108 inspection?
- What opportunities are there to save money on maintenance?
Of course, all the information in this guide is an estimate. You can also find various details about the Peugeot 108 service in your service booklet and in the user manual!
Intervals maintenance Peugeot 108
The inspection intervals for the Peugeot 108 depend on the engine. With the 1.0-litre engine, it is recommended that it be serviced every 15,000 kilometres or every 12 months. For the 1.2 litre petrol engine, on the other hand, the inspection schedule recommends 25,000 kilometres or 12 months. The service due date is also indicated by the car's service display, so you always know when your car is due for service.
Make sure that every service (or repair) is recorded in the service booklet. With the service book, you always have a service record of your car to hand, which is very useful for any warranty services, but also when you sell your Peugeot.
The following work is usually carried out during a service on the Peugeot 108:
- Change oil, oil filter and oil drain plug
- Checking engine emissions
- Checking the engine and gearbox for leaks
- Checking the height of the clutch pedal and adjusting if necessary
- Visual inspection of chassis (tyres, springs, shock absorbers and suspension)
- Visual inspection of the bodywork, paintwork, floor plate and exhaust system
- Checking glazing
- Functional testing of all lamps and headlamps
- Check locks and hinges and lubricate where necessary
- Checking the brake fluid
- Brake system check and function test
- Check coolant and windscreen washer fluid, top up if necessary
- Check battery and voltage, replace battery if necessary
- Read out fault memory, correct any faults and delete them
- Test drive and check driving behaviour
- Reset maintenance display (reset inspection & oil change)
Additional service work, but not compulsory annually
- Replaceollen filter every 2 years
- Change brake fluid every 2 years
- Perform an electronics check every 3 years
- Replace spark plugs every 3 years or after 60,000 / 90,000 km
- Carry out an intensive chassis check including shock absorber test every 3 years
- Change air filter every 4 years, earlier if necessary
- Change coolant every 4 years
- Check condition of V-belts, tensioner and tensioner pulley every 4 years, replace if necessary
- In the case of the 1.0 petrol engine: visual check of the timing chain after 120,000 km at the latest (additional cost!)
- For the 1.2 petrol engine: replace the timing belt including tensioner and water pump after 165,000 km at the latest (every 10 years at the latest - extra cost!)
Maintenance expenditure on Peugeot 108
If no extraordinary work is required, the Peugeot 108 inspection is generally cheap. The average costs for maintenance according to the inspection plan, including an engine oil change, are around €220-270. However, if after a higher mileage, various wear parts (e.g. brake discs and pads or spark plugs) need to be replaced, the service costs rise considerably. You can save on maintenance by, for example, buying your own engine oil and taking it to the workshop. Consult with the workshop beforehand, because not all garages are waiting for this. You can also request quotes for maintenance from various garages in advance. The hourly rates can sometimes differ considerably and it can therefore be worthwhile to look beyond the first garage.
How to minimise maintenance costs on Peugeot 108
Apart from engine oil, you can also get many other spare parts in best brand quality at very reasonable prices in various online shops. Parts such as air, interior or oil filters, windscreen wipers, spark plugs, car batteries, brake system parts, shock absorbers, chassis springs and the like can easily be ordered online. All these parts can then be fitted to your Peugeot 108 during the inspection at a specialised workshop. You will save a lot of money compared to buying parts at the workshop. If you decide to buy this yourself, it is advisable to indicate this to the garage in advance so that they know about it. The garage may not be keen on this! It is also important that you order the official parts so that you can be sure that everything fits your Peugeot properly.
Mar 2, 2022 | Maintenance and polishing |
Polishing pads come in different shapes, colours and sizes. Which polishing pad should you use for the desired effect? On this page we try to give more clarity.
Which polishing pads are there?
Roughly speaking, we can divide the polishing pads into 3 types:
- Pads for pre-polishing (cutting pad)
- Pads for polishing large defects (polishing pad)
- Pads for restoring the gloss (finishing)
Hard foam polishing pads (pre-polishing)
For heavier polishing work, you need a hard foam polishing pad. This is often referred to as a cutting pad or a heavy cut pad and has a high cutting power. This means that this pad removes, as it were, a small layer of the car's paintwork, and in this way you can remove scratches. These pads often have more hairs and are often used in combination with a heavier polish to remove most scratches.
Medium-hard foam (polishing pad)
A polishing pad is more suitable for restoring the gloss of the paintwork and is actually an intermediate step between coarse and fine polishing. This pad is less coarse and will also have less effect on any scratches. This medium-hard polishing pad is used in combination with a medium-hard polishing agent.
Fine foam (finishing pad)
These finishing pads are suitable for restoring the high gloss of the paintwork. This is often the last step in the polishing process. These pads are used in combination with a fine polishing agent. A fine polishing pad, in contrast to coarser pads, does not have any cutting properties and is therefore used, for example, to spread wax or sealer evenly across the surface.
Size of polishing pads
The pads are available in different sizes, which is the diameter of the pad. The smallest pads start at 75 mm and the largest at 200 mm. The 125 mm and 150 mm pads are very popular and well-suited for polishing the entire car. The 75 mm pads are suitable for smaller and fine surfaces.
How do you know which polishing pad to use for the desired result?
Before you start, it is advisable to carry out a small test to get to know the paintwork better. Choose a spot of approx. 50 x 50 cm to determine the right combination of pad and polish. This way you also quickly know how many steps you need to take to polish the paintwork. You can do as follows to determine which pads and polish you need:
- It is best to start with a light/fine polishing pad and polishing agent.
- Start by polishing the small surface to see if the desired result is treated and, of course, if it is scratch-free. If it is, then you can treat the entire surface with this combination of pad and agent.
- Is the test not successful and would you rather see a different result? Then you can change the pad and use a heavier/coarser pad and/or a heavier polish. On a pad that you have used with a light polish, you can always apply a heavier polish. If you have used a pad with a heavier polish, do not use it with a lighter one, as there is a chance that it still contains residues of the coarse polish. Start polishing again to see if you have the right combination.
- The combination of polishing pad and polishing agent may vary from one panel/surface to another, so we recommend carrying out a small test for each panel before polishing the whole one.
Pads for random or rotary polishers
The important thing to remember when choosing polishing pads is that they are suitable for the polishing machine you are using. For a rotating machine you can use the traditional pads without centre hole. If you use an excentric polishing machine, you need pads that can handle the excentric movement (and vibration). These pads have a centre hole to dissipate the heat that is released during polishing. Also, the pads for eccentric machines often have a slanted edge, this is to prevent you from hitting the paint with the machine's backing pad due to the eccentric movements.
There are also special pads for the forced polishing machine. This machine combines the power of the rotary polisher with the safety of the eccentric polisher. The pads for the forced polishing machine are often thin pads.
Pads made of wool, foam or microfibre? When to use which pad?
There are many different types of materials that can be used for cleaning. For example, wool, foam, microfibre, felt and denim. The first three are used the most. Time to highlight these three guys.
Polishing pads of wool
A woollen pad or polishing fleece has a corrective effect and is mainly used for coarser polishing work. This is because the hair has a very coarse structure. Woollen pads are usually made of real sheepskin. In addition to these real sheepskins, there are also wool pads that are partially or even 100% made of synthetic (artificial) hair. In general, wool pads made from real sheepskin perform best. With such a wool pad you can easily remove deep scratches.
Foam pads
Foam pads come in many different varieties and are probably the most common type of polishing pads. From very hard to very soft foam and from very coarse to very fine cell structure. The harder the foam and the coarser the structure, the deeper the abrasive power and the faster scratches can be removed. However, the risk of holograms increases enormously with a coarser structure. The softer the foam and the finer the cell structure, the higher the level of gloss and the fewer holograms.
When to choose foam polishing pads?
- If the lacquer is soft or difficult to polish, we recommend the foam pads
- If you are not an experienced polisher yet, the foam pads are a safe choice.
- The pads are mainly suitable for perfecting and not necessarily for correcting (large) scratches
- The price for the foam pads is often cheaper, so you can immediately buy more pads and thus alternate between the pads.
- With foam, there is less chance of holograms.
Microfibre/ microfibre pads
Microfibre is a very fine material for polishing if the right quality is chosen. Just like the wool pad, it has many hairs that absorb the product well. This makes the microfibre pad very suitable for cutting and it has just a bit more power than foam pads. At the same time, the hair is much softer than wool. Therefore, in addition to the high cut, a high shine can also be achieved. The microfibre pad is mainly used for eccentric polishing of deep scratches and hard lacquer. Microfibre is also available in various types, namely with a short fibre or a somewhat longer fibre. With a hard interface layer or a softer intermediate layer.
When to choose microfibre pads?
- Microfibre pads are especially recommended for hard lacquer
- Often these pads are used by the more experienced polishers as you have to master the heat that comes with these pads.
- When you want to polish correctively and get rid of deeper scratches.
Microwool pads
Finally, we have the combination of microfibre and wool, the microwool pads. The wool is there for the corrective effect and the microfibre for a good finish.
How do you ensure that you can work with the pads for a long time?
It is, of course, nice if you can use the pads for a long time. Therefore, it is important not to let the pads get too hot and to let them cool down regularly. You can do this by cleaning the pads under the tap or by using a padwasher. What's always important to remember is that the pad has to do the work, so you don't have to put pressure on it while polishing. If you do, the life of the pad will be shorter. If you notice that you have to put too much pressure, it's better to use a coarser pad and/or a coarser polish.
Mar 1, 2022 | Maintenance and polishing |
Need tips for car polishing? Do you want to repair paint scratches or do you want your car to look shiny again? All you have to do is polish your car. In this article, we'll tell you how to do it. Are you ready to go? Then the car polishing can begin!
The basics of car polishing
The car's paintwork has to endure a lot every day. Sunshine, stone chips, insect remains, bird droppings, dust, dirt or whatever. Over time, the paintwork begins to look dull and scratches spoil what was once a perfect finish. This is where car polishing comes in. Car polishing means nothing more than bringing the paintwork back into top shape with an appropriate, gentle polishing process that only treats the top layer of paint. The base coat and primer remain untouched.
Did you know. Unsuitable cleaning agents or some car washes can also damage car paint. Brushes that are too scratchy or solvents that are too strong corrode the paint and leave marks. To remove these scratches, you can polish the car and seal the paint.
When and how often to polish your car?
When (and how often) should I polish my car? It is important to know that the layers of paint are not infinite. In other words: If you polish your car too often, you damage the paint, but if you treat the paint too little, it's not good either. Untreated damage and dirt can lead to worse damage and, at worst, corrosion and rust. So what guidelines can you follow? We recommend the following:
- It is best to polish car paint once or twice a year.
- After the winter is a good time to polish the car. The car has often had to endure a lot during the winter and can use a boost during the spring service. It can also be advisable to do this just before the winter starts so that the paintwork is well protected going into the winter.
Polishing supplies
For polishing with a machine you need several things, make sure you have at least the following on hand:
- Polishing machine: eccentric or rotating? If you want to treat the car with a polishing machine, we recommend you to buy an eccentric one. It is perfect for home use and is also cheaper than the rotating version.
- Polishing pads that are suitable for the purpose you want to achieve.
- Pads are available in different sizes. Smaller pads are suitable for the finer work and larger pads for the larger surfaces. Of course, you can change the pads in between depending on the surface to be treated.
- A cutting pad is suitable for coarser polishes. These pads often have more hairs and are mainly suitable for removing scratches.
- A polishing pad is more suitable for restoring the gloss of the paintwork. This pad is less coarse and will also have less effect on any scratches. These pads are mainly to make your car shine again.
- Polishing agent: There are various polishing agents available, all of which have a different application.
- A standard polish mainly provides more gloss and has a fine structure.
- Abrasive is suitable for removing scratches and has a coarser structure.
- A combination of the above polishes is suitable for both removing scratches and bringing back more shine to the paintwork.
- Car shampoo for proper cleaning of the paintwork.
- Car clay for removing stubborn dirt deep into the paintwork. You can use Sonax clay for this purpose, for example.
- Microfibre cloths for wiping paintwork. Good microfibre cloths absorb a lot of moisture and do not leave scratches.
- A water spray.
- Painting tape for masking off lights, rubber, frames and other surfaces adjacent to the paintwork.
Wash the car thoroughly
Probably needless to say but before you start polishing the car, make sure that the paintwork is clean and that you have clayed the paintwork to make sure that no dirt is left behind that could cause damage during polishing. Before washing the paintwork, you can use car shampoo that will allow you to thoroughly clean the paintwork. After washing the car, you can further clean the paintwork using cleaning clay (car clay) such as Sonax clay. With this clay, you can still remove stubborn dirt left behind. When this is done, dry the car well with microfibre cloths so that the paintwork is completely "naked". There should be no agents left on the paintwork such as wax, grease or other protective agents.
Additional precautions
Before you start, you should take the following precautions:
- As a precaution, check whether you recognise any scratches on the car that need pre-treatment.
- If the scratches are very superficial, there is no need to do anything else. Because such scratches can easily be removed during polishing.
- If you recognise small stone chips, this is usually not a problem.
- You can pre-treat and repair damaged spots, deeper scratches or rusty areas before you start polishing.
Covering with tape
Take the time to tape lamps, rubbers, frames, stickers and other surfaces adjacent to the paintwork. Make sure that you apply the masking tape neatly, this prevents the car polish from affecting the rubber and causing new stains or the like. Of course, the paintwork must remain accessible so that you can polish the car properly.
Stay away from heavily adhesive tape, duct tape and the like! You would only damage the paintwork - and you don't want that. For your paintwork, definitely use adhesive tape that is suitable for polishing cars. It is best to do it with, for example, painter's tape or special masking tape so that you can protect the spots perfectly.
Step-by-step plan for car polishing
Now that you have finished the preparations, you can use the following steps for successful polishing of the paintwork.
1. If you are going to use a polisher for the first time, it is advisable to first turn the machine on without putting it directly on the paintwork. Let the machine run for about 10 minutes before using it, make sure you attach a pad to the machine during the trial run.
2. You are now ready to start. Apply the polish to the pad, a few drops are enough. For a new pad, up to 6 drops are enough, for a used pad, 4 drops are often enough.
3. Spray a small amount of water on the surface to be treated, this will ensure less dirt gets into your pad. Make sure the water does not drip off the panel as you will have used too much water.
4. Press the pad containing the polish onto the part you want to treat. The machine is not on yet! Start with a small area no more than 5 to 10 times the size of the pad and apply small amounts of polish here. Make sure the compound is fairly evenly spread over the area you want to polish before turning on the machine.
5. Place the machine on the surface and turn the machine on. Start on setting 1 so you can start polishing calmly and spread the compound evenly over the paintwork so that everything looks greasy. Let the machine do the work and do not apply force while using the machine.
6. Make sure you make overlapping movements so you don't miss a spot and always keep the machine moving. Move slowly back and forth across the paint, first from left to right, overlapping the lanes you create with the machine. Repeat this from top to bottom as well.
7. Finish the entire car and try to follow the lines of the car as much as possible. If there are spots that need extra attention, make sure you polish them. If necessary, put the machine on a higher setting for deeper scratches. After polishing, the polish should be completely spread out and dissolved. A white haze remains on the paintwork.
8. Now that polishing with the machine is finished, it is important to clean the surface. Do this with a microfibre cloth (insert link) to ensure that no streaks are left behind and that any residual polish is removed.
9. Once this is done, move on to the next part of the paintwork you want to polish. Repeat the above steps for each section until the entire car is polished.
10. Are there spots on the car that are difficult to reach with the machine? Then polish this by hand. Put some polish on a microfibre cloth and treat the surface. Then clean this surface again when you are done.
11. Now that everything is ready, you can check the car, hopefully the result is a shiny car and you are satisfied. Still not completely satisfied? Then repeat the process. If there are any scratches that you have not been able to polish away, you can opt for harder pads on the 2nd treatment that will hopefully be able to remove the scratches. However, remember that polishing will not always remove all scratches. Polishing is especially suitable for light and less deep scratches. A common rule is: if you can hook your nail into the scratch, then the scratch is probably too deep to polish. If you have really deep scratches in the paintwork, then you can really only solve this by sanding, polishing, spraying and varnishing.
12. Are you finished polishing and satisfied with the result? Then we recommend waxing to protect the paintwork. Apply a little wax to a microfibre cloth and apply it to the car in circular movements. Let the wax dry for about 1-2 minutes and then remove the excess wax with a microfibre cloth so that no residue is visible.
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