Apr 3, 2021 | Buying advice |
Buying a used car up to 500.- Euros is exciting! After all, a decent racing bike costs more than 500 Euros. The right question is therefore, "what can I expect from a car up to 500,- Euros"? In this article I give you guidelines to answer this question. In the end, you have to make your own purchasing decision when you are about to buy a budget car.
In what situations do you buy a budget car?
It's different for everyone, of course, but I myself have never had a huge budget for expensive cars. When I was a student, I often bought a cheap car to go on holiday with. The prices at which I bought cars back then varied between 400 and 750 euros. Of course, you can also buy a cheap car because you don't value status at all and just want to have a means of transport that works. You may also find yourself in a situation where you simply cannot afford to pay more than 500 Euros. In these cases, you have to realise that driving a car is quite expensive and that unforeseen costs may occur. Therefore, in this situation, it is wise to compare all means of transport. An off-peak season ticket of the NS is in almost all cases cheaper than owning and using a car. Of course, as a car lover, I am the last one who would like to discourage you from buying a car, but there is nothing as annoying as owning a car that you can't actually afford and where nothing is allowed to break down because you don't have any budget left over for repairs.
What kind of car can you buy for EUR 500?
What do you buy for that!? My experience tells me that a 3000 euro car is not necessarily better than a 500 euro car. In this price range, you should not be in too much of a hurry and research the past of a car. How many owners a car has had can be found out from the check the banner below. This is just one indicator, but if a car in the case of a private individual has been recently transferred, then there is a chance that the car may need an expensive repair, such as replacing the timing belt.
Personally, I have good experiences with Volvos and AudisThey seem to stand the test of time well. BMWs, on the other hand, drive great, but as they get older, they can start to show problems. In addition, there are plenty of Japanese and other VAG models/brands to recommend.
What to look for in a used car
Because the range of cars on offer in this price range, a €500 car, is also quite large, we have created a checklist. You can download this checklist and use it when viewing a car. Of course you can add to the list yourself with points that are important to you. Take your time to view a car and don't let the owner or company rush you. Finally, it is important to make at least a 10 minutes test drive and it is best to leave the radio off, so you can hear whether there are strange noises coming from the engine or the chassis.
Get the used car buying checklist for free
Mar 11, 2021 | Buying advice |
The Volvo V70 is the most successful Volvo of the last decades in terms of sales numbers. Only the 340/360 and 440/460 were sold more. The Volvo Type 2 that was built between 2000 and 2007 was, and still is, very popular. The reason, probably, is the friendly and solid image of the Volvo, you don't get embarrassed in a Volvo. The high reliability and safe image probably also plays a role. And fortunately, this type was still supplied with 'real' Volvo engines, the 5-cylinders.
History of the Volvo V70 2
When the Volvo V70 was launched in January 2000, Volvo surprised friend and foe with just the introduction of the new V70 - where had the S70 gone? But the implacable Swedes from Gothenburg calmly stated that there was none and none coming. The V70 looks somewhat like an S80 estate car, and it was indeed based on the same modular P2X platform, but it is about 110 mm shorter and 30 mm narrower. Volvo probably thought that an S70 would be too close to either an S60 or S80. In the end, no one crowed about the S70, and the V70 sold like hot cakes. In the introduction year, more than 6000 were sold in the Netherlands. This is a gigantic number for a car in this price range. The total market share that year was more than 1%.
Engines and equipment V70
At launch, there were a number of different variants to choose from. Several petrol engines were available, the 2.4-litre 140bhp engine was carried over from the previous generation V70, as was the 170bhp version of the same engine. The 200 hp 2.4T engine was slightly improved from the 193 hp engine of the 'old' V70, and the 2.3-litre T5 variant with 250 hp needs little introduction. Those looking for a diesel had a fine 2.5-litre turbo engine at their disposal.
In June 2000, Volvo introduced the V70 Cross Country off-road version, which retained the chic look of the Audi allroad reflects and is equipped with the 200 hp 2.4-litre petrol engine. Equipment levels were reasonable, but you had to order an edition for a nice level of equipment. The conventional 140 hp and 170 hp petrol engines remained available over the years, while a 163 hp D5 common-rail 2.4-litre diesel engine appeared in the summer of 2001. The Volvo V70 Cross Country was renamed XC70 in early 2002 and BiFuel versions of the 140 hp V70 were also offered. In 2003, Volvo launched the V70 R. By now an iconic appearance in the mint green colour with no less than 300 hp under the bonnet.
The driving characteristics of a V70
The dynamics of the Volvo V70 are better than you would expect. Body roll is evident when you put the big Volvo into a corner, but the steering feels precise and the handling is benign and predictable. The five-cylinder engines are great, and while the entry-level version with 140bhp doesn't seem over-engineered, it's certainly not slow. All engines are reassuringly quiet and most at home on the off-road/highway. Of the models, the fast T5 makes the most headlines with its top speed of 250 km/h and ability to do the 0-100 km/h sprint in under 7 seconds. The R is of course even faster to the 100 km/h, only 6 seconds. The turbo diesel (D5) is a model of flexibility and in combination with a manual gearbox extremely economical, 1:18 is really achievable.
The 2004 facelift
In 2004, a major facelift was introduced to the range. The main changes that will be most noticeable were a more streamlined set of bumper and grill with clear tail lights fitted to all models. There were changes to the interior trim and several bits of new technology were added. The T5 also received a boost of 10 hp to 260 hp. For the 2006 model year, a further power boost was introduced with the D5 diesel at 185 hp. Nevertheless, the 163 hp engine in 2.4D form and the 130 hp diesel remained. Later in 2006, a 180 hp 2.0-litre 5-cylinder turbocharged petrol engine also became available. All models at that time received door mirrors with integrated indicators.
How is a Volvo v70 2 as an occasion / youngtimer?
The Volvo V70 is a traditionally solidly built Volvo with a vertical rear window that can carry enormous loads. The shape, however, is not the usual slab-sided body, with elegantly tapered shoulders running along the car's flanks. Volvo claims a rear seat capacity of 1641 litres.
Where the old V70 was all sharp angles and boxy looks, this v70 type 2 is all round. Designer Horbury has cleverly reduced the curvature of the side windows from front to back, for maximum style on the driving side and maximum carrying capacity on the business side. The rear end is distinguished, as before, by Volvo's now customary pillars of tail lights.
The interior
The interior is reasonably timeless and well-matched to the driver; the seating position is simply very good. The ergonomics are also fine, with the central console tilted towards the driver, so that everything is within reach. Furthermore, the seats are sublime and can be adjusted in many ways, so that almost everyone can find a good sitting position. Unfortunately the interior of this Volvo doesn't stand the test of time as well as for example an Audi. The upholstery of the seats is prone to tearing, the steering wheel can sort of peel and creaks in the interior are no stranger to this Volvo either.
What should you look for when buying a V70?
The Volvo V70 has not yet reported any significant defects, but as with any estate car, you should check the rear cargo area for signs of damage. The five-cylinder engines are bulletproof, with the exception of the 250-horsepower variant, turbo problems do occasionally occur. In addition, the diesels can suffer from piston ring/ rocker arm problems when they reach a high age. The engine then makes a knocking / popping sound, an expensive repair. On the more powerful models, check the tyres carefully, as they can quickly wave the white flag if the car has been driven "vigorously". Use the Cross Country check for proper wheel alignment and inspect the suspension and exhaust if you suspect it has been subjected to anything more than a grassy car park. The automatic gearboxes are just fine and will last a long time, but you should make sure during a test drive that it shifts smoothly up and down. And when idling, don't ping. Small jolts do not have to be a problem and can be solved by flushing the automatic transmission. The costs are between 250-400,- euro. This flushing should be done periodically, every 100,000 kilometres is recommended. The front suspension can also become slack, which you will notice when driving over speed bumps. This can of course be solved by fitting a set of new shock absorbers.
Feb 7, 2021 | Mounting |
Retrieved from hitch mounting is googled a lot, with more than 10,000 people searching for towbar fitting and related searches every month. Therefore, in this article, Autobaak answers the question of how much fitting a towbar costs, what types there are and what to look out for when using a towbar.
Most people who have a towbar once never want to be without one. So fitting a towbar is a good idea if you ask us! Although a towbar is usually associated with a trailer, you can of course also use it to tow a caravan and easily fit a bike carrier.
Some people think a towbar does not fit the lines of their car. But fortunately, nowadays you can opt for a detachable or a hinged towbar. As a result, it need not be at the expense of your car's design.
What is the average cost of fitting a towbar
Material costs differ depending on the type of towbar as discussed above. It is also crucial how much weight the towbar needs to carry. A fixed towbar costs less than a detachable solution. The price for a towbar is between 100 and 600 euros. In addition, an electrical kit (cable set) is needed, which costs 100 euros on average. Finally, labour costs should also be calculated if you drive to a workshop for retrofitting. The installation cost for a towbar fitting depends on the type of towbar and the car model. It usually takes two to three hours and the hourly rate is between €60 and €120. Some workshops also offer towbar fitting at a fixed price. This then includes materials and labour.
If you want to have a towbar fitted, you will end up spending between 400-500,- euros for a fixed towbar. The detachable variant starts at 600,- euro. A swing-away variant is the most expensive and the cost will quickly exceed 1000,- euros.
What towbars are there?
As also described above, there are roughly three variants of towbars. The fixed tow bar, the detachable tow bar, and the tilt/turn tow bar. They are further described below:
Rigid fixed tow bar:
A rigid/fixed tow bar is particularly suitable for continuous use. Couriers and vans often use this variant. It is the cheapest solution for retrofitting a towbar. The towbar with ball head is used with a bolted or welded-on ball rod. Star in this case means that the towbar including the ball is firmly attached to the mounting crossbar and cannot be removed. The advantages of a fixed towbar are:
- Will last your whole life if all goes well
- No maintenance costs
- Always available and no hassle with assembly/disassembly
- Often price-wise the most interesting
Removable tow bar:
A detachable tow bar is especially suitable for those who only want to use it occasionally. In contrast to the rigid (fixed) version, there is no permanent aesthetic effect on the car. When not in use, the towbar can be removed in a few simple steps. The original appearance of the car is retained. In some cases, this is really necessary. For example, I sometimes see a Audi A7 with a fixed tow bar. If you ask me, it's a shame about the beautiful body.
If we do look for the advantages of a detachable towbar, they are as follows:
- If the tow bar is not on it does not spoil the look of the car
- The fog light and number plate are not constantly covered
- Invisible when not in use
- The hook is not in the way when you are busy in the boot
- The tow bar does not interfere with any parking sensors
Swivelling / tilting tow bar:
The swivel (tilt/turn) tow bar is a practical, elegant and unobtrusive variant for retrofitting: the tow bar can be easily rotated under the bumper and is available for use the other way round within seconds. Ideal for those who like the look of their car. However, such a tow bar cannot be screwed under every bumper. And the system is not available for all cars either. It is best to check with the workshop.
If you have fitted the hitch yourself, have it checked at a garage. A specialist will take another look at whether the towbar is properly and securely attached. Fitting a towbar is not very complicated but you need to be sure it is done properly.
Tow bar and cable set: 7 or 13-pin plug?
The tow bar and cable set, what exactly do you need? A correct pole system (Cable set) is what fits the particular vehicle. Because not all electrical systems work on every vehicle. Therefore, it is best to use a system directly from the car manufacturer. The clutch has already been checked in the course of the inspection when the car is introduced and will definitely fit. Moreover, the electric kit for using a trailer is already matched to the electric system.
Aftermarket systems
But aftermarket suppliers also offer functioning systems. However, these often do not have EC type approval and a visit to the RDW is mandatory after fitting. It should also be clear in advance whether a 7- or 13-pin plug is needed for electrics such as brake lights, direction indicators and rear fog lights. Alternatively, there is also an adapter, from 7-pin to 13-pin. If the car is equipped with an electronic management system, a special control unit may also be needed to control the trailer's electrical system. In some cases, the workshop needs to activate the electrical system to operate a trailer.
Can you put a tow bar on any car?
Unfortunately, not every car is suitable for fitting a tow bar. This may have to do with, for example, the place where the fog light is mounted or the location of the number plate. The towbar must not block this view, which means that fitting the towbar is not allowed.
Furthermore, some cars are not allowed to tow but only carry. If you want to fit a tow bar to tow, in that case it is not allowed. Consider low-powered cars such as electric or hybrid models like a Toyota Prius, Nissan Leaf or Citroen C1. The manufacturer of these cars has stipulated that these cars are not allowed to tow (i.e. no trailer or caravan) but are allowed to carry a bike carrier. So that is something to take into account!
Tow bar fitted
Want to have a towbar fitted? Then it is best to contact a reputable garage in your area. Fitting a towbar is a specialist job and needs to be done professionally so you can be sure that hook is fitted correctly. Many garages charge a fixed price for the purchase of the towbar including installation.
Can I fit my own tow bar?
Of course, you can choose to fit a towbar to your car yourself provided you have sufficient technical knowledge. Without the right knowledge and skill, you won't know if it is safe or correctly fitted. Fitting it yourself is not only a big safety risk, but you can also void the towbar or car manufacturer's warranty by doing the job yourself. Unless you are a mechanic or a tow bar mechanic, we always recommend getting the tow bar installed by a professional to ensure it is safe. So, our advice would be to pay a visit to the local workshop so that you can be sure of a safe towbar under your car.
Towing regulations
There is no law or regulation that prescribes the removal of the tow bar when driving without a trailer. But there is one exception: a detachable tow bar must be removed if this is stated in the booklet or the type approval. For example, if the ball head of the hitch covers the number plate when driving without a trailer.
Does a towbar also require maintenance?
If the tow bar is under the car, you should not forget to regularly contol and maintain it. That way, you can be sure you can safely tow a trailer or caravan. Here are some points to consider for a reliable and safe towbar:
- Make sure the bolts are tight, inspect them after long trips and make sure they are tightened regularly. For example, every 1,000 km.
- It is important that the draw ball does not get smaller than 49 mm. With frequent use, the ball may wear out. If the diameter is smaller than 49 mm then you need to replace the ball tube.
- Use a tow bar cap that protects the ball from rust and dirt.
- Clean the tow ball regularly. If there is dirt on the ball, it is best to clean it with a cleaning spray and then dry it with a cloth. If there is rust on the ball, you can remove it with fine-grained sandpaper, for example. Of course, proceed carefully and do not sand too hard.
- The ball attached to the tow bar should always be well protected. Make sure it is always clean. When you are not using the towbar, you can protect the ball with a special cover.
- Remember that the socket/connection of the electrical connection is clean. These are the contacts next to the tow bar and the trailer contacts. Clean the connections regularly by using contact spray, for example. This spray removes grease, oil and other dirt and ensures that the electrical contacts are clean. And of course it is important that the contacts are covered when you are not using the towbar. For this, you can use a cover plate.
- Regularly inspect the wiring so you can be sure everything is working properly.
- If you have a trailer with a stabilisation system, you should not lubricate the towbar ball as this can cause problems with the stability of the trailer. If you have a trailer without a stabilisation system, it is a different story. In that case, it does make sense to apply a thin layer of lubricant. We always recommend reading the user manual carefully to be sure whether or not you need to lubricate the ball. If in doubt, it is best to contact a garage in your area.
Jan 21, 2021 | Electronics |
Changing a car battery is easy to do yourself. The replacement of the car battery occurs more often during the winter months than in the summer months. Usually a good car battery lasts about 5 years. The life depends on the use. So if you make a lot of short trips and restart often, the car battery will not last as long. In this article I explain how to replace the car battery in 12 steps. If you are unsure to do this yourself, it is better to stop by the garage. In most cases, this job should be completed in 15 minutes.
Before replacing a car battery, you can test more > Battery test.
Step 1 Consult the user manual
Consult your car's owner's manual for the location of the car battery. Space under the bonnet is at a premium in many new cars. Some batteries can be hidden in the boot, under the floorboard or even out of sight behind a wheel well.
Step 2 Look at plus and minus
Identify the positive and negative poles and the cables attached to them. The positive terminal may have a red plastic sleeve and/or the cable attached to it may be red. There should also be a "+" symbol stamped or printed on the battery, next to the positive terminal.
Step 3 Disconnect the minus pole
Use a spanner to loosen the nut or bolt that secures the negative terminal and the cable to the negative battery terminal.
CAUTION:
Be careful not to let metal objects touch both battery terminals at the same time, and do not let your spanner touch the positive terminal and the body or wing at the same time.
Step 4 Use a battery terminal puller
After loosening the bolt or nut, use a battery terminal puller, if necessary, to remove the cable and the terminal from the negative battery terminal. Do the same with the positive terminal.
Step 5 remove the fastening system
Remove the clamp or the fastening system that holds the battery pack in place and set aside the parts and fasteners to prevent misplacement.
Step 6 Use the handles to lift the battery pack
Carefully lift the battery out without moving it too much (be prepared, it is a bit heavy). If there is a handle on the battery, use it to lift it out of the car.
Step 7 Clean the battery poles
Examine the battery terminals attached to the ends of the battery cables to make sure they are clean and free of corrosion. If they are not, clean them with the terminal cleaning tool. There is a special tool that fits over the terminal, with another brush that fits into the terminal. If this doesn't work, a stiff wire brush can do the job. The cleaner your poles and terminals are, the better and more positive connection the battery will have, more current.
Step 8 plus with + and minus with -
Position the battery so that the red, positive pole matches the positive pole and the location of the cable.
Step 9 Secure the battery
Place the battery pack. Then secure it with the previously removed clamp or the fastening system.
Step 10 Remove the plastic caps
Remove the plastic caps that cover the battery terminals and place the corrosion protection rings over them.
Step 11 Use anti-corrosion grease
Apply a thin layer of grease to the battery terminals before connecting to the positive terminal. Special anti-corrosion grease is available to prevent deposits of downy greenish white corrosion, which may prevent the battery from being charged. Use the spanner to tighten the connector until it is secure. Then repeat for the negative terminal and battery terminal.
Try wobbling the car battery. If it moves, tighten the clamp or the fixing system. You're done installing a car battery! Be proud of this good work. And now you know you won't be stranded with a dead battery!
Step 12. Think about the environment and recycle
Replacing a car battery, as you have read, is easy to do yourself. Just remember to take your old car battery to a local garage for recycling.
Jan 10, 2021 | Tyres |
In surrounding countries such as Germany, Sweden and Austria, winter tyres are, as you would expect, compulsory during the winter months.
Although they are not compulsory for Dutch drivers, it is perhaps a good idea for motorists in the Netherlands to know the benefits and composition of winter tyres. Then you can make the decision to purchase winter tyres yourself.
In this article, we cover how winter tyres work and why drivers can benefit from a set when the temperature drops.
What is a winter tyre?
The biggest difference between winter and normal (summer) tyres is the depth of tread.
On a winter tyre it starts between 8 and 9 mm, compared to 7 and 8 mm on a regular tyre.
The grooves in the tyre are also wider and deeper to form a larger channel to handle snow and water. This maintains better grip in wet/snowy conditions.
Another important distinction is that the rubber used to make winter tyres contains a larger percentage of natural rubber and silica. This does not harden as much as the synthetic rubber often used in summer tyres. This improves the grip of winter tyres in cold temperatures compared to summer tyres.
What are the advantages of winter tyres?
In addition to improving road grip, which clearly boosts safety in wet and icy weather conditions, winter tyres also have an impact on braking distances.
Tyre manufacturer Continental has tested that a vehicle equipped with good winter tyres comes to a stop after 35 metres at a speed of 50 km/h on a snow-covered road.
With normal tyres, this distance is eight metres further (43 metres). That's the length of as many as two more cars!
Is it useful to fit winter tyres in NL?
According to experts, winter tyres are efficient in temperatures below 7 degrees Celsius. In the Netherlands, it is usually colder than 7 degrees Celsius during winter.
Therefore, despite the overall rising temperatures, fitting winter tyres in the Netherlands can still contribute to road safety. In recent years, more and more people have been switching to so-called all-season tyres. These tyres are a compromise between summer and winter tyres, but in winter conditions they will always lose out to winter tyres.
"Cold weather tyres offer much better grip in both wet and dry conditions when the temperature drops below seven degrees so they provide extra safety from October to March."
Are there any disadvantages to winter tyres?
As you would expect, winter tyres are not as efficient as summer tyres in temperatures above 7 degrees Celsius.
At high temperatures, the grip of winter tyres decreases. This also extends braking distances. In addition, they also wear out more quickly when used during the warmer summer months and need to be replaced sooner. When a winter tyre has less than 3-4 mm profile, they are no longer effective in winter conditions. A car can still pass the MOT with this profile, but it is not recommended to go on a winter holiday with worn winter tyres, for example. In Germany even the profile depth is checked.
So use your winter tyres sparingly by switching back to summer tyres in time. Although an extra set of winter tyres requires an investment, it does add to safety, which can prevent any bigger expenses such as a slippery weather accident.
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